CBD Is Popping Up Everywhere — Does It Actually Work?

By Cotton Codinha

Photographs by Will Anderson

ALLURE:August 9, 2019

It’s in coffee, face creams, even lube. It’s cannabidiol, but what exactly is it, and what to make of the claims?

CANNABIDIOLnoun, kan-eh-buh-die-el This compound, known as CBD, is derived from the cannabis plant. CBD has been shown to help shield the body from oxidative stress (which can cause cell damage and disease). Anecdotally, some claim it’s anti-inflammatory and can help relieve anxiety and pain. But CBD is not regulated by the FDA, except for one prescription medication to treat severe childhood epilepsy, says Dustin Lee, an assistant professor in psychiatry and behavioral sciences at Johns Hopkins University. “Most of the research is preclinical. We need controlled studies before we can advise the public on how CBD can be used efficaciously.”

PSYCHOACTIVEadj, sigh-ko-ak-tiv When a CBD product contains more than .3 percent of THC (delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol), it is considered mind-altering. Seeing “psychoactive” (or “THC”) on a label means you might get high. Be careful of how much you’re ingesting.

HEMPnoun, hemp Refers to a strain of the Cannabis sativa plant and the fibers it contains, which were originally used to make fabrics. Hemp is now bred with higher amounts of CBD and is legal in more states than marijuana. Slightly confusing fact: CBD derived from hemp and marijuana is identical. Unless the product contains THC, it is not psychoactive.

TERPENESnoun, tur-peens These compounds give cannabis plants their flavor and aroma. Two common ones? “Limonene has an uplifting, citrus flavor, and myrcene is mind-relaxing and has a clove-y scent,” says Grant Rogers, a brand manager at Extract Labs, a hemp-derived CBD company based in Colorado. Think of it like the subtleties of wine, adds Sally Nichols, the president of Bloom Farms CBD, a California-based CBD company. Still, Lee urges consumers to take the mood-altering claims with a grain of salt. “The research we have with terpenes, and most of CBD, does not match the marketing claims,” says Lee, citing the lack of well-controlled studies.

FULL SPECTRUMadj, ful spek-trem Refers to a CBD product that contains all elements of the cannabis plant, including up to .3 percent THC. BROAD SPECTRUMadj, brod spek-trem This CBD product contains every element of the cannabis plant (all terpenes and all cannabinoids) except THC. BIOAVAILABILITYnoun, by-oh-ah-vale-ah-bill-ah-tee

How fast CBD enters the bloodstream to take effect. Smoking and vaping are the most immediate because the CBD goes into your lungs, says Rogers. Holding a tincture under the tongue for absorption takes about 10 minutes. A soft gel capsule or gummy ingested orally can take up to several hours because it has to work through your digestive system; your response time can be lengthened by how much food you’ve eaten.

ORGANICadj, or-gan-ik It’s crucial to look for organic certifications in hemp-derived CBD because hemp absorbs everything in its surrounding soil (including heavy metals or pesticides). “All the sources in your product should have organic certifications on the label or website,” says Nichols. “You can also look for ‘organically grown.’ ”

CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS (COA)noun, sir-tiff-ik-et uf an-al-uh-suss

Any reputable CBD product should have one done by a third-party lab. Find the batch number on your product (usually on the bottom or side), and check the brand’s site for its COA report. Ensure the level of THC is under .3 percent. (Concentrations vary, but most readings hover between .05 and .11, well below .3 percent.) Heavy metals, pesticides, and microbials should also be included; look for “ND” (“not detected”). The FDA is looking into establishing guidance on the safety and/or efficacy of CBD products and plans to provide updated information.